Since the pandemic, Zuhair Murad has been traveling the world for inspiration each season, looking to far-flung locations as he added stamps to his passport. This season he kept the cues closer to home, mining the shapes and colors of the ancient Phoenicia — the precursor to his home country of modern-day Lebanon.
The resort lineup drew a throughline from the spring 2024 couture collection presented earlier this year, which also looked to antiquity for goddess dresses and soft tones of tapioca, blush and sage sourced from relics relayed a delicate air.
Looking back on his homeland’s roots was a reaction to the uncertain times we are living in, and made for a calm and confident collection that, while it still retained Murad’s signature sparkle, was not overwhelmed by bling.
He balanced the powdery colors with powerful shoulders on many looks, opting for high-collared, embellished or lace necklines on slim column dresses that bared the back. A monochrome striped gown emphasized his exquisite construction — and is bound to be seen on a red carpet soon — while mottled florals in terracotta and gold set on black or white gowns provided subtle swathes of color.
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A straight neckline from the bridal collection was reimagined in black for evening, carrying the sophisticated silhouette forward. Elsewhere, a hooded gown added an air of mystery, a T-shirt and shorts look first explored in his pre-fall 2023 collection was given an even slouchier update here. He is continuing to explore tweed, which he first worked with for fall 2023, in softer colors. The fabric has fast become a client favorite, the brand said.
In other pieces, he strengthened his branding with the ZM monogram from the pre-fall collection incorporated into looks including on gold-effect buttons and blown out as a pattern on embroidery and lace.
There was still sparkle on some jackets and suits, and a few sharp points such as the shoulder of a miniskirt suit, but the collection was about exploring softness outside of his comfort zone while strengthening the house codes.