Erdem Moralioglu’s bespoke, made-to-measure and tailoring business is flourishing, and the designer has built on that momentum with his latest offer, which he described as “a menswear collection for women.”
Inspired by socialites and bohemians of the 1920s, an era when women started wearing trousers and sporty pieces swiped from men’s closets, Moralioglu created a color-drenched wardrobe that swung from low-key to lavish.
British menswear fabrics and classic shapes were out in force — and had unexpected flourishes. A tall, embroidered carnation sprouted on the side of a sturdy black-and-white check overcoat, while crystal leaves tumbled down a double-breasted topcoat. The designer pinned a lush fabric flower, in arsenic green, to the lapel.
There was tailoring galore in the shape of an oversize blue trouser suit with tone-on-tone embroidery, and a check skirt suit printed with large shadowy flowers. Knitwear played a starring role, and included chunky cropped V-neck sweaters in gray or lavender adorned with crocheted flowers planted like corsages above the breast.
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The collection skewed to daywear and included skinny dresses with long, vertical pleats as soft and comfortable as nightgowns, and a lineup of flower-strewn skirts paired with matching oversize men’s shirts.
Evening dresses had spare, Art Deco flair and delicate embellishment. A liquid gown in midnight blue had a single fold at the waist and the outline of a flower picked out in sequins on the side, while a flapper-style slipdress came adorned with sparkly, flowery swirls and crystal fringe.
Moralioglu worked it all with a light touch, and managed to strike that tricky balance, marrying the masculine with the feminine.